But if you dont have an OF2200 and only have a smaller router you better use the smaller bits, that 1 1/2" bit takes off a ton of material and creates massive dust. Each bit includes a friction-fit holder made of an advanced polymer, which can be mounted horizontally or upright. It is hard to tell from the picture of your entire workpiece, but the close up picture almost looks like the assembly might be sagging in the middle of the cut and digging in deeper. Your first task will almost certainly be getting one side out of wind, so do you have a flat enough and big enough surface to work on? wings make a fast and clean cut on your project material, great for projects of any level of complexity.

If you can, take a knowledgeable mate with you when you hire, to check the machine out before you accept it. Do the 6 wing jobbies just make the job quicker (larger diameter) or do they leave a better finish as well? If you are looking for a "perfect" finish from the router, it's not likely to happen without an absolutely perfect setup, and a lot of skill. With the 25mm flute bit I wasn't really restricted for depth of cut- it'd quite happily remove 15mm high spots. And it could project the workpiece towards the operator, not away, leading to a kickback-like injury to your torso.

And then you have to put the workpiece back down carefully and push it back into position (still working blind remember) until the bit unexpectedly re-engages with the work.

The router guide sled you have bridging the rails needs to be strong enough to not flex and sag midway through the pass. The main thing you'll need to be careful about, beyond keeping your fingers away from the bit, is to always be aware of where the wood that you're removing is in relation to the bit. There are some great choices for sleds out there these days, I tend toward the homemade side simply because I have run into slabs of all different shapes and sizes and don't personally work with slabs regularly, maybe once every year or two. Bear in mind also that fitting your router to the trammel box, or adapting the trammel box to the router will also come out of your hire cost. Reiterating what has been said and adding a bit to bring all the tips together in one place: Your guide rails have to be very straight, parallel to each other, and well anchored in place.You say 1/8" So that is an 1/8" from the very highest point, so much of the time you are cutting air? International products have separate terms, are sold from abroad and may differ from local products, including fit, age ratings, and language of product, labeling or instructions. The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice. This would require the rails to be big and sturdy enough to still support the work piece while the router removes some material from them. For flattening a workbench, live-edge table or other wood slab too large to pass through a jointer or thickness planer, these bits are an effective, economical alternative.

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Great for hand-making and other woodworking job - Our plaining router bits are the preferred choice of professionals and hobbyists alike, with these bits, one could make floor, cabinet door etc. Finally, to fully flatten the piece all the way around, you'd need to route into the "rails" as well. I can tell you from experience these are as robust and heavy duty as they come and the motor is 3HP which is great for heavy operations like surfacing or panel raising in the router table. The bit is safely away from operator on the underside of the tool, not poking up through the router table and completely unshielded. I would strongly suggest using gripper pads and guiding the work piece from above, rather than the easier (and more tempting) way of holding the work piece by it's edges.